There is a moment somewhere around Namche Bazaar, on your second day of walking, when your legs are tired and the trail seems to go nowhere but up, and you wonder quietly whether you have made a mistake. Then you turn a corner and see it. Everest. Just sitting there, enormous and white and completely unconcerned with your suffering. That moment is why people do this trek.
Everest Base Camp is 5,364 metres above sea level. To put that in context, the highest point in the UK, Ben Nevis, is 1,345 metres. You will walk roughly 130 kilometres over 12 to 14 days through some of the most dramatic scenery on earth. And you will feel every single one of those kilometres.
This is an honest guide. Not a list of superlatives. Just what you actually need to know before you go.
Who Can Actually Do This Trek
More people than you think. The Everest Base Camp route does not require any technical climbing skills. There are no ropes, no ice axes, no vertical faces. It is a walking trek, just a very long and very high one.
What it does require is decent cardiovascular fitness, a willingness to walk five to eight hours a day for two weeks, and patience with your own body at altitude. People in their sixties complete it regularly. First-time trekkers complete it. The key variable is not age or peak fitness but how well your body acclimatises to altitude, and that is something you cannot fully predict in advance.
If you can comfortably walk for three hours with a day pack at home, you can train for this. Start six to eight weeks out. Long walks on consecutive days matter more than running or gym work. Your legs need to get used to sustained effort, not short bursts.
The Route: What You Actually Walk
Almost all trekkers start with a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla airport. Lukla sits at 2,860 metres and the flight itself is considered one of the world’s most dramatic, landing on a short runway cut into a hillside. Weather cancellations are common so always build extra days in Kathmandu before and after your trek.
From Lukla you walk north through the Khumbu Valley. The main stops, in order, are Phakding, Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, Dingboche, Lobuche, Gorak Shep, and finally Everest Base Camp itself.
Namche Bazaar at 3,440 metres is the main hub of the region. It has bakeries, gear shops, wifi cafes, and a surprisingly good espresso. Most itineraries include a full rest day here for acclimatisation, and the recommended activity is hiking higher above town and coming back down, which helps your body adjust faster. Do not skip this day. Altitude sickness is not something you push through.
Tengboche at 3,870 metres is where many trekkers have their first real encounter with altitude. The monastery here is one of the most atmospheric places in all of Nepal. Prayer flags against a backdrop of Ama Dablam, which many climbers consider more beautiful than Everest itself.
Gorak Shep at 5,164 metres is the last settlement before Base Camp. Most people sleep here and reach Base Camp the following morning. The altitude at Gorak Shep is genuinely punishing. Simple tasks like tying your boots become effortful. Eat what you can, drink three to four litres of water a day, and sleep as much as possible.
Everest Base Camp itself at 5,364 metres is, if you are honest, a fairly unremarkable stretch of moraine and ice with a lot of expedition tents on it between March and May. The view of Everest from Base Camp is actually quite limited because the mountain is tucked behind the Khumbu Icefall. The real views of Everest come from Kala Patthar, a 5,545 metre viewpoint above Gorak Shep that most trekkers climb before or after Base Camp. Sunrise from Kala Patthar is one of those experiences that is genuinely difficult to describe to someone who has not seen it.
Altitude Sickness: The One Thing You Must Take Seriously
Acute Mountain Sickness, AMS, affects a significant number of trekkers on this route. Symptoms include headache, nausea, dizziness, loss of appetite, and difficulty sleeping. Mild AMS is very common and usually passes with rest and acclimatisation. Severe AMS is dangerous and requires immediate descent.
The single most important rule is this: never go higher if you have symptoms. If you have a headache and feel unwell at one altitude, do not push to the next one hoping it will resolve. Rest. If symptoms worsen, descend. No view is worth your life.
Diamox, a prescription medication, is commonly used as a preventive measure. Consult a doctor before your trip about whether it is right for you. Stay extremely well hydrated throughout the trek. Alcohol and sleeping pills can both worsen altitude symptoms.
Permits You Need
Two permits are required for this trek. The Sagarmatha National Park Permit costs around 3,000 Nepali Rupees for foreign nationals. The Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entry Permit costs around 2,000 Nepali Rupees. Both are obtainable in Kathmandu or at checkpoints along the route. Your trekking agency can arrange them for you, which is the simplest option.
Best Time to Go
There are two main trekking seasons. Spring, from March to May, offers warmer temperatures and the chance to see Everest summit attempts in progress. The trails are busy but the rhododendrons are in bloom below Namche and the views are typically clear. Autumn, from October to November, is slightly cooler and considered by many to offer the clearest mountain views. October in particular is the most popular month on the trail.
Avoid December, January, and February unless you specifically want a winter challenge. Avoid June, July, and August because the monsoon makes trails muddy and views are often hidden in cloud for days at a time.
What It Actually Costs
Budget for the trek itself, not including flights to Nepal, somewhere between USD 1,200 and USD 2,500 depending on whether you use a guided package, trek independently with just a permit, or hire a private guide and porter.
A good guided group trek from a reputable Nepali company costs around USD 1,200 to USD 1,600 and includes airport transfers, accommodation in teahouses, all meals, permits, guide, and porter. Independent trekking costs less but requires more planning. Teahouse accommodation along the route averages USD 5 to USD 10 per night but you are generally expected to eat your meals at the same lodge.
Add flights to Kathmandu from London, which range from roughly GBP 400 to GBP 700 return depending on airline and season, plus travel insurance, gear, and the internal Kathmandu to Lukla flight which costs around USD 200 to USD 250 each way.
Packing: What You Actually Need
The key principle is that your porter will carry most of your gear in a main bag, while you carry a light day pack. Keep your day pack under 10 kilograms. Main bag with porter can be up to 15 kilograms.
Essentials include a warm down jacket, waterproof outer layer, thermal base layers, good quality trekking boots that you have already broken in, trekking poles, a sleeping bag rated to minus 10 or colder, sunscreen rated SPF 50 or higher (the UV at altitude is intense), a water bottle and purification tablets or a filter, headtorch, and a basic medical kit including blister plasters and pain relief.
Gear can be rented or bought in Kathmandu’s Thamel district at reasonable prices. If you do not already own proper trekking boots, consider buying or renting in Kathmandu rather than investing in expensive gear before knowing whether you will trek again.
A Note on Guides and Porters
Nepal introduced a mandatory guide rule for most trekking regions. Always hire through a legitimate registered agency. Your guide is not just a navigation tool. On a route like EBC they are your safety net, your cultural interpreter, and often the person who recognises altitude symptoms before you do. A good guide makes this experience significantly better.
Porters carry heavy loads at altitude every day to keep tourism running. Pay them fairly, ensure they have adequate clothing and shelter, and treat them with respect. They are doing a job most people could not do.
The Honest Part
The trek to Everest Base Camp will be harder than you expect. Your body will surprise you, both in good ways and difficult ones. There will be days when you feel unstoppable and days when you feel completely depleted. The altitude will take things from you and give them back differently.
What almost every person who has done this trek says, unprompted, when they return: it was worth it. Not because of the destination, which is honestly a jumble of rocks and expedition gear. But because of the fourteen days of walking through one of the most spectacular places on earth, sleeping in small warm teahouses, drinking sweet tea with strangers, watching the mountains change colour at dawn, and finding out what you are made of when it gets hard.
That is what Base Camp actually is.